The Malvani flavours I tried during my Sindhudurg trip

On my first morning in Sindhudurg, I set out looking for breakfast and ended up planning the rest of my meals. Around Malvan, I found rice pancakes, coconut dishes and the tart taste of kokum. I liked how these flavours kept appearing in different ways as I travelled along the coast.

I wanted to try what people made locally, so I asked for suggestions wherever I ate. Staff at hotels in Sindhudurg were helpful too, but some of my best choices came from seeing a dish arrive at another table and asking what it was.

Ghavne gave my Sindhudurg breakfast a gentle start

The first food I had was ghavne, which is a thin pancake made of rice with delicate outer sides and a soft inside. My ghavne was served fresh with chutney, and I liked how well it absorbed the tastes of other dishes it was served with. I had an amazing breakfast before going out again.

Many rice dishes like Ghavne represent Malvani cuisine and are connected with Sindhudurg. I liked to see the process of making the pancake right in front of me. I enjoyed waiting for my meal in the comfort of the restaurant while watching another portion of pancake being prepared.

Amboli made me order a second breakfast at Sindhudurg

On another morning, I chose amboli. It was thicker and softer than the ghavne I had eaten earlier, with a pleasant tang from the fermented batter. I had it with chutney and a serving of usal. The combination made my breakfast substantial for a long day of walking.

Trying the two dishes on separate mornings was worthwhile. They both begin with rice, yet have different textures and tastes. I found myself looking forward to breakfast, which is saying something on a trip where the beaches and forts were waiting outside.

Phanasachi bhaji was the Sindhudurg lunch I remembered

For lunch, I was inquiring about phanasachi bhaji, which is made with jackfruit. The pieces absorbed the spices well, and the coconut added to the flavour. I had it with rice bhakri and was tearing pieces of bhakri and scooping the bhaji with it. This meal made me take notice of Malvani cooking.

I assumed that because we were by the coast, it would influence what goes on the plate, which it did, via the use of coconut and mixed spices. Bhakri was as good as the dish next to it.

Solkadhi suited a warm Sindhudurg afternoon

After spending time outside, I tried solkadhi. The drink combines coconut milk and kokum, giving it a creamy texture and a tart finish. It was refreshing and tasted unlike anything else I had tried that day.

Kokum appeared in shops too, and I began to recognise its sharp, fruity flavour. I liked finding an ingredient that connected a drink, a meal and the things for sale in the local market. It was a small detail, but it made exploring the food more interesting.

Khaja, cashews and fruit came home with me

I kept room for Malvani khaja, a crunchy and sweet treat that was nice to share. While eating it, I was glad to have something different after my series of salty treats. I was also looking for local fruits. Sindhudurg is famous for its Alphonso mangoes, although their availability varies by season. I also picked some cashews as a souvenir, cultivated and harvested in Sindhudurg. 

By the end of my visit, I had a clear answer when someone asked what I enjoyed most. It was the variety, from amboli at breakfast to spiced jackfruit at lunch and solkadhi later. When comparing hotels in Sindhudurg for another trip, I would pay attention to the nearby places serving local food. I want to try more Malvani dishes, and I would happily return hungry.